Going to have something called a DPF a diesel particulate filter and the DPF job is to catch black smoke, which is particulate a carbon residue from combustion. And it’s supposed to not allow it to pass out of the exhaust deck. Now looking at a 2010 Rv that has a DPF and under acceleration, you’re seeing a lot of black smoke or even just a small amount. Something’s wrong with that system.
Now, older DPF sometimes will pass a little bit of suck but if you’re seeing a lot, there’s something wrong either the DPF failed, or someone’s modified the DPF hollowed it out. It could be cracked, you could have a problem with an injector or some other fuel-related item. Even a boost related item that’s causing excessive black smoke, ‘s a problem DPS is extremely expensive so if you’re looking at a newer vehicle with a DPF, and you see black smoke. You really want to have that checked out because it could cost you 1000s of dollars okay let’s talk about the other colored smokes here. So, white-bluish or green.
All those are bad, and depending on which one usually whites the other most heavily found one is, you probably have either coolant fuel or oil, getting into your exhaust system. And those are never a good sign. So if you have coolant getting into your exhaust system. That means you probably have a cylinder head that’s cracked and an NGR core that’s cracked or leaking, a cracked cylinder head. the rest of the vehicle has been maintained. So that’s why we’re going to be focusing on the engineer. Not only that, if you wanted to talk about everything on a truck or piece of equipment. Long and just trying to focus on the diesel engine here.
So let’s get into the Blog. So, if you’re trying to make a checklist on your diesel engine that you prove to be potentially purchasing and you kind of want to go through each individual component the way I’m going to lay it out, is kind of by symptoms that would cause you to want to dig a little further into it.
So we’ll need to talk about fluids we’ll need to talk about smoke, check engine lights, things like that. So, the first thing I want to focus on is smoke. And the reason for that is it’s obviously the easiest to see, and there’s not a lot of inspecting you need to do to see that hey, wiser white smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe or the blow by two if it has one. So, let’s get into smoke, and what you need to work for what’s normal, what’s not normal. What you really need to be concerned about, regardless of what make or model engine diesel engine you have. It’s gonna have an exhaust system and that exhaust system should be blowing only clear exhaust fumes.
There’s a lot of potential problems there. If you see white smoke. I would say definitely want to have it checked out further before buying a vehicle that’s emitting any sort of non-black smoke out of the exhaust system. Now, what about other types of smoke. They might be wondering what other types of smoke would there be well. Most older diesel engines we’re talking 2006 and older, which still playing on the road are gonna have a blow-by tube and on older cars, those would have been called a road draft too and some manufacturers still call them that.
But what this is is this is crankcase fumes, that are basically combustion byproducts that push past the rings during combustion, and it’s a normal process all engines have this on the newer engines though it’s usually a closed-loop system, where the blow-by fumes are getting reintroduced into either the exhaust or the intake and they’re trying to burn them or filter them out, an older one, you can usually see the volume, and if the volume is very high or it looks high to you, that can be a bad sign that can mean that you have excessive wear in the engine.
Now, this could be caused by many things air compressor cylinder where the valve seals the turbocharger by usually the number one cause is so underwear. So if you have large amounts of blow-by at least visually, you probably want to dig deeper into that most dealerships can do what they call blow-by a test which will measure the volume of the blow-by. And if it’s excessive, you’re probably dealing with a worn engine, although there is a possibility, it might just be an air compressor or a turbocharger, but all those items are expensive. Of course the rebuild.
A worn engine being the most expensive so look out for blow-by on older
engines, it’s harder to tell on the newer engines with the closed crankcase systems, but if they have excessive blow-by they’re probably going to be getting a code, which will be excessive crankcase pressure or high crankcase pressure.
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