In the current age of fast fashion and disposable clothing, it is refreshing to see that some traditions have survived even in the 21st century. One such tradition is the Bhagalpuri Saree, a unique type of fabric that originated in eastern India as a response to social upheaval. It can be identified by its distinct style and colors, which have been in continuous production for more than 250 years now. Let’s look at this fascinating piece of Indian culture – its history, production methods, and significance today.
What is a Bhagalpuri Saree?
A Bhagalpuri Saree is a traditional piece of textile woven from Bhagalpuri silk, a type of fabric that originated in the village of Bhagalpur in eastern India. The Bhagalpuri Saree is a myriad of colors held together by a black border woven into the fabric itself. Bhagalpuri silk is a natural fiber produced by the domesticated silkworm; the history of silk production in India can be traced back to the 6th century BC. This is the most popular silk fabric in eastern India – it is woven in various designs, colors, and patterns, but its black border always characterizes it. It is important to note that the Bhagalpuri Saree is not just one type of fabric but also a group of products that will vary in quality and durability depending on the socio-economic status of the person wearing it. A Bhagalpuri Saree can be either a single or double-stitched fabric, with the former being more luxurious and expensive than the latter.
Why is the Bhagalpuri Saree so important?
The traditional Bhagalpuri Sari has an interesting story behind it. The Bhagalpuri silkworms were originally imported from Japan to cater to India’s demand for high-quality silk fabric. However, the imported silkworms failed to thrive in the Indian environment, causing a significant decline in silk production. In the late 18th century, a series of social and political upheavals caused widespread famine in the eastern parts of India. The people in this region were unable to sustain themselves and were driven to extreme measures to survive the famine. The weavers of the region were forced to use whatever was available to them to create new and cheap fabrics – an alternative to the high-quality silk that was no longer accessible to them. They used the cocoons of the local wild silkworms to create a fabric that was cheap and accessible to all sections of society. This fabric is called Bhagalpuri silk, and it is still being produced in the same region to this day. What began as a necessity has evolved into a tradition that is over 250 years old.
The Tradition of the Bhagalpuri Saree
The Bhagalpuri Saree is worn in the eastern parts of India, primarily in the states of Bihar, Jharkhand, West Bengal, and Odisha. These saris are made from natural fiber, primarily silk and cotton, and feature intricate hand-woven designs by artisans. The saris are known for their vibrant colors, obtained using natural dyes, such as turmeric, indigo, and pomegranate. They are also known for weaving a black border into the fabric, which is thought to be a tradition that started during a famine. The saris are primarily worn by women during formal occasions and traditional ceremonies.
The Hand-weaving Process for a Bhagalpuri Saree
The Bhagalpuri Saree is hand-woven from Bhagalpuri silk, which is a type of fabric that originated in the village of Bhagalpur in eastern India. Silk is one of the oldest fiber fabrics in the world, having been produced in China over 5,000 years ago. The production of silk fabrics in India dates back to the 6th century BC. Silk fabric is known for its luxurious sheen, smooth texture, and durability. Bhagalpuri silk is woven with a black border, a tradition that started during a famine. The weaving process for the Bhagalpuri Saree starts with harvesting the silk cocoons. They are then boiled in lye and water to kill the worms inside the cocoons, after which they are dried and combed to remove the silk filaments. The filaments are dyed to obtain the desired color and woven with a black border. The final product is a gorgeous silk sari that can be worn at special occasions or ceremonies.
Celebration of Colour in the Bhagalpuri Saree
The Bhagalpuri Saree has a long history and has been used to produce textiles of varying types and qualities over the years. The fabric is hand-woven using natural dyes and dyed using organic colors like spinach, turmeric, pomegranate, and indigo. These natural dyes produce vibrant colors, characteristic of the Bhagalpuri Sari. Bhagalpuri silk features various colors, including purple, blue, pink, red, yellow, black, and green. These colors are often combined to create intricate patterns, such as paisleys and floral designs. The Bhagalpuri Sadee is also known for its use of gold and silver thread, which is used as a decorative element in certain parts of the sari.
Conclusion
The Bhagalpuri Saree is a tradition that has been around for over 250 years. The fabric is hand-woven from Bhagalpuri silk and is known for its vibrant colors and intricate designs. These saris are rich in tradition and history and have evolved to become an essential part of eastern Indian culture. This can be identified by its distinct color palette, patterns, and black border, making it a truly unique piece of textile.
